An article from the UK’s Telegraph about France’s Cork Federation and their recent campaign to boost cork appreciation got me thinking. For one, about how little I still know about corks, and for two, about how much I do know. For again and again I have been hearing about the two camps, to cork or not to cork, because of the fear of what’s being labeled cork taint. Supposedly cork taint can affect up to 15% of all wine bottles, no laughing matter. But how much is really cork taint from corks, and how much is it from other sources that rarely get referenced?
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Tags: cork, cork taint, France, James Laube
So get this. Driving around in the Midwest last week, in a bedroom-like community of Kansas City (a be-YU-tiful city – need to spend more time there), saw a housing development going up named “Napa Valley.” I was SHOCKED. And then amused. And then SHOCKED again. Why? No, it’s not because it was a small tract of land that was flatter than flat with just a hint of the many more identical McMansions that would be slapped up there blaring out at us from the distance. And for sure it’s not because of its Midwest locale. Nor because it was lacking any atmosphere of ANY kind. (Disclaimer required: I’ve never been to Napa Valley, I’ve just seen pictures, but this development wuhddn’t [sic] no Napa Valley!) Here’s why I was miffed: Read the rest of this entry »
Tags: grapes, Jackson Hole, James Laube, Kansas City, Napa Valley, vineyard, Wine Spectator, Wyoming
A “guest” posting by Scott. I need to get this guy out here more often.
WS’s Harvey Steiman posted a piece on Feb 23rd discussing his recent surprise while tasting the ’05 Ch. de Pez. I’ve had this wine many times, not the ’05, but the ’88, ’89, and ’90. They were classic wines back then, and I don’t know about now, but I have a hunch about their current style. When Steiman first rated this wine, probably back in ’07 or ’08, he scored it an 88. In his recent tasting he liked it so much that he said he might start drinking Bordeaux again and scored it a 90. I know that there really isn’t any difference between an 88 and a 90 score, e.g., it’s got to be something like 88 +/-2 or 3 or 4; an 88 is not absolute, exact. However, for the critic and the consumer a score of 88 is 88 +/-0, or, it IS absolute in their minds.
The crime here is most consumers won’t give much consideration to wines scoring less than 90, so Steiman’s original score of 88 probably hurt de Pez’s sales in the US, but now a couple years later he scores it a 90 and says he might start drinking Bordeaux again because of it. Wine critic scoring is 100% subjective and not at all precise, and when those imprecise scores are around critical break points, like 90, then it can have considerable impact on sales.
Tags: Bordeaux, Harlan Estates, Harvey Steiman, James Laube, James Suckling
Reading a fairly recent WS blog by James Laube about winemakers with style reminded me of what Scott has been saying since ’45:
“I don’t make wine for anyone except me.”
“Wait. Woah. Hold on, Hoss,”
I’d say to him.
“How the hell are we supposed to sell wine you only make for yourself?!”
Even before planting the vineyard we had talked about not catering to the critic’s palate, and for sure not rushing after or trying to predict the wine flavour of the day. That wasn’t the point of any of this. But to hear Scott put it out there on the table so, well, matter-of-factly (or egoistically, depending on how one feels AT THE TIME), I was taken aback, made a little nervous.
Tags: James Laube, palate, sea turtles, vineyard, wine, winemakers
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